And the romance lingers on…

The flight from Madrid was short & peaceful for all those aboard – except me. I glanced at my family – my wife and both the children – the happiness of having already been to Greece, Italy & Spain apparent on their face. Yes, the journey so far was good and very enjoyable. But here I was, like a winded up clock, though more with anticipation.

It was almost after seven years that I was about to see her. Seven long years! It was business that had brought me to Europe in August, seven years ago. I was on my way back from Venice to home at Mumbai, when I sighted her first during a stop over. Now, this could have been an after-effect of my having had an early morning lovely ride in the Adriatic Sea.  Yet, despite having very little time at hand on that stop-over that I could spent with her, it was enough for me to remain hooked on to those lovely memories.

However, with the aircraft taking me closer to her, my emotions were all mixed up. I was tensed wondering if my romance at first sight just the fleeting moment of fancy? Will my decision to spend almost a week with her, alongwith my family, a bit too courageous? So many thoughts & questions were clouding my mind when the aircraft – descending from the clouded sky brought me down to the terra-firma.

The pulse was seriously beating rapidly now as we disembarked, the feet moving faster so that I can see her. And then that first look at her and all misgivings just disappeared. She still had the same alluring charm and intrigue around her which had mesmerized me seven years ago. In fact, if anything, the passing of time had done wonders to her.

And at that moment I was ready to let the whole world know that I fell in love again - with the City of Romance – Paris!

No one really knows why Paris alone is called the city of Romance. I am sure there are places as good if not better. Yet, it is Paris which has been bestowed this honour since ages. And justice it does to this honour. There is a palpable attraction in the city that weaves its own magic – like an enchantress from the old magic fables – and keeps one hooked on.

Behind the enigma of Paris lies its being at the centre of some of the greatest events that have resulted in change of course for the entire European history. Having been established by the Gauls, attacked and invaded by Julias Caesar, civil wars, religious struggles between Protestant & Catholic movement, Marie Antoinette, Napoleon, destruction in both the world wars, taken over by Nazis in 1940 and liberated again in 1944  - Paris has seen it all. It has been caught up amidst some of the most fiercely fought wars & political /monarchial skirmishes. Each time, Paris rose to a glory, there were setbacks, and like a proverbial Phoenix, it again rose from its ashes to even greater heights.

To me, as we traveled through one of the most tourist friendly city, the charm of this city lies in its deep rooted love for art, culture and freedom. The Renaissance period in Europe and the French Revolution in late 18^th century coupled with the ever modern outlook of the Parisians has created a mystical aura for the city.

 

A series of monarchies have undoubtedly left its impact on the city’s architecture and yet there is continuity. Despite being a modern Megapolis, the Notre-dame and the Louvre made during 12^th to 14^th century still look in sync with the the Arch-de-Triumph  and  Pantheon of 18^th Century.

 

Even, La Madeleine – a Greek Temple in the middle of Paris built in 18^th Century by Napoleon with Corinthian columns – and an Egyptian obelisk in the centre of Place De la Concorde, covered,  with hieroglyphics depicting the great life of the pharaoh Ramses II, just makes the city that much more interesting.

Towering above all these is the Eiffel Tower, reaching out to the clouds in the sky – a perfect vantage point to experience the city.

Paris has a superbly developed infrastructure – capable of taking you with ease from any one place to another. But essentially it must be experienced on foot.



Walking through the streets lined with open air cafes, browsing through varied re-prints of art and cityscape,visiting some of the most beautiful parks full of Parisians and the tourists enjoying the summer warmth, one can but not help breathing in the city’s vivacious energy.




Various statues & sculpture all around lend their own magic to the city and yet are unable to draw your attention away from the marvelous facades of the buildings around which mesmerize you in.

And like statistics, what these building hide inside is even more interesting. A must visit on any itinerary are the Louvre, Musee-de-Orsay and a number of other museums – including the ones dedicated to art of eroticism and fake articles!

Though it is Mona-Lisa which is one of the chief attractions for everyone visiting Paris, I found the city a real treasure trove for art lovers.  Rodin’s sculptures, Salvador Dali’s abstract forms, Van Gogh’s poignant history through his painting and Da Vinci’s genius are only a tip of what lies inside these museums – an inspiration always to the current generation of artists.

As if the days spent in visiting all these are not exciting enough, the evenings of Paris make it further interesting. Sitting in the open air bus and passing through – by now – a well illuminated city – is another sight that cannot be experienced elsewhere in the world. Adding to this is a must visit to any of the well-known cabarets, including Moulin Rouge – the birth place of Can Can dance, to actually experience the meaning of word “Effervescence”.

While, we, the adults, were going gaga over the city, and kids were getting treated to a history and culture lesson, the high point for the kids were the 2 days spent at the Disneyland Paris. In fact, though distinctly not Parisian in style, the Disneyland still manages to be an extension of the city. Roaming inside Disneyland with all kind of joy-rides available around you can bring a child out of an adult too.

 

For me, despite having spent one full week in Paris, it was just not enough. But for the time being our itinerary was already chalked out and there was no option but to take off to our next destination. I was still hooked on, and yet trying to decipher why Paris is so romantic.

I think the answer lies in the city’s attitude to life - everything in life is a celebration – and a celebration at a grand scale but without pompousness. Hemingway had written if you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a movable feast.

Small wonder that another five years have passed since I last saw her and yet, I can still close my eyes and feel the vibrancy and the unmistakable sense of pulsating joy. I am eager to see her again, be with her, explore her nuances, understand the enigma, because for me, my romance with Paris still lingers on…

Close Encounters of the Bird Kind

One of the most tiring & often frustrating aspect of being an amateur bird photographer is inability to get true colours of the birds. The cameras might be good but the zooms leave much to the desire. And closer one tries to get to the birds, faster they fly away. It is challenging but, as I started with, also very frustrating. Even in the best of the sanctuaries, one needs to tread so carefully to reach into that distance which, to a bird, should be acceptable as non-threatening.

Hence a full resolution picture like this would be a dream-come-true:

or getting so close to a "magar" that you can advise it about maintaining dental hygiene (if only you are ready to forget the age old proverb "pani men rahkar magar se bair nahi lete"):

No, these are not the pictures taken at Zoo nor is this report about my having acquired a new zoom lens.

This is about Ranganthittu, a bird sanctuary unique by itself and Kokkare Bellur – a village about 100 Kms from Bangalore that has adapted itself to a lifestyle to suit annual visits of Pelicans & Storks.

Kaveri river, originating from Kodagu (Coorg), after leaving western ghats forms its first island at Srirangapattnam. Ranganthittu is a series of small islands located just before Srirangapattnam. Here, rather then conquering these islands, Kaveri has created a place that migratory birds find idle for nesting & breeding. Dr Salim Ali, with his foresightedness, was the first one to recognize the potential of this place and it was his efforts that led to conversion of this area in to a sanctuary.

My first visit to Ranganthittu was in October 2006. Those were the initial days of my passion for bird-photography. I was comparatively raw to the hobby and I used a Videocam for still photography. As a result, though we had a great time sighting White Ibis, Black Ibis, Darter, Stone Plover, Cormorant, Night Heron, and Brahminy Kite among other birds, my album had nothing great to show.

Since then, except the darter, I have had chance to see most of these birds in & around Mumbai itself, but in my mind I still could visualize the ones which I had seen 2 years back from such close quarters. Providence provided another opportunity to visit Bangalore and having completed my work decided to stay an extra day to visit Ranganthittu with my cousin brother – a friend, philosopher & guide always but more so through the growing up years of my life. The habits die hard - so off we were for bird-watching (albeit of a different kind) !!

We reached the sanctuary early morning, an ideal time when the the songs of birds can be heard easily - not because they are more vocal but because there are very few human beings around. Kaveri, in the morning light was resembling more like a placid lake, green in appearance, flowing discreetly as if not wanting to disturb the migrants it attracts.

In contrast to the serene river, the islets resembled huge colonies under reconstruction as Painted Storks, Open bill Storks, Spoonbills & Spot-billed Pelicans had staked their claims to various plots. Not at all concerned about the slump in property prices, these creatures were continuously chattering & calling out to their mates while finding suitable construction material to ferry to the site, and yet finding time enough to engage in courtship. The lower parts of these Islets were being occupied by Night Herons largely with few white breasted waterhens, large, little & median egrets also jostling for the space.

Countless number of cormorants had carved out a niche for their own and were spending less time in swimming & more in nesting. A few darters, perched among the tree branches, justified the reason for their also being called a snake bird.

A few Great Stone Plovers (Great Thick-knee) completed the picture, ever alert to the boats nearing them while unseen White throated Kingfisher filled in the back-ground score. Other birds seen included streak throated swallow near the entrance to the sanctuary, a few parakeets & grey hornbills in flight, Brahminy kites, sunbirds, tailorbirds, White browed wagtail & a pair of unidentified warblers.

The mammals, till homosapiens crowded the sanctuary, were represented by huge colonies of flying foxes. And yes, a few sun-bathing resident muggers, eyes closed & smiling at the memory of the last meal they had devoured, were occupying the smaller rocky outcroppings - oblivious to the floating population gawking at them.

Having feasted our eyes & having exhausted the shutterbug, we moved to Kokkur Bellur via a brief halt at 'Daria Daulat Bagh" - the summer palace of Tipu Sultan. A plain looking monument from far, due to sun-screen all around, hides the history that has been recreated through paintings on the walls of the monument. Situated amidst verdant green lawn hedged with tall trees all around is a single storeyed structure made up largely of wood.

The wall on one side of the hall depicts defeat of Colonel Bailey at Kancheevaram in a mocking style (the defeated colonel with knuckles pressed to the teeth depicting his fear & shock), the wall on the other side has been used as personal album of Tipu Sultan, depicting pictures of various kings of those times. It would be interesting to not only identify those faces but also to find out the reason for depicting them on the wall of a palace which was apparently used by Tipu to recover from the fatigues of the hard fought war. The colours of the courts have faded a bit but are still evidence to the rich heritage existing here.

From Daria Daulat Bagh, we moved to Kokkare Bellur (KB). The road to KB is a turn off (on the left after passing Cafe Coffee Day outlet at Channapatna) from the newly laid six-lane Bangalore Mysore highway. As you move on, the road becomes much narrower & difficult to drive on, with furtehr obstacles created by villagers using the vehicles movement to thrash Ragi from its husk. Talk of effcient cost reduction & energy saving measure. The paddy fields around were proving to be a good food provider for egrets, black ibis, barn swallows, Indian Robin, Pied Starlings, wagtails, Tits & Brahminy Kites. The lake formed by a dam had numbers of terns flying around while common coots were busy finding food.

Soon we reached Kokkare Bellur which, deceptive in looks though, is not an ordinary village. A village with an area of about half a sqaure kilometer has been considered (for over last 500 years) as safe heaven for nesting by spot Billed Pelicans - a specie which has been in decline over the years and is being treated as vulnerable, and Storks. Incidentally, the word Kokkare means storks in Kannada. The village was reverberating with the sound of flapping wings of Painted Storks who were all around busy with courtship rituals & nest building & no senas were around to stop them from exhibiting their love for each other.

Spot Billed Pelicans, lesser in numbers though, kept taking a flight every once in a while as an overhead patrol to safeguard their nests from the Brahminy kites hovering in the sky.

Interestingly, this place is managed, not by any government agency, but by the villagers themselves who have adapted their lifestyle to create a perfect symbiosis. In order to provide a safe environment to the birds, a villager is ready to forego income from his trees, if the same has been selected by a bird for its nesting. In return, the bird's excrement, rich in potassium, due to fish based diet of the birds, proves to be a natural fertiliser. No wonder, this readiness to adapt the lifestyle to protect enviornment, has led to an increase in the numbers of nestings over the years.

Quite possibly, therein lies a lesson, for all the agencies - governmental as well as NGOs & do-gooders, engaged in protecting environment. Ensure that local people understand the issues as well as benefits resulting out of protection of environment and you can achieve better results.

Meanwhile, for us, the day ended with one of the most beautiful sunset.

For more pictures of this trip & of the flwoer show at Bangalore's Lal Bagh, please click on the following link:
http://www.flickr.com/gp/7271923@N06/045U69